Plan: There is no plan.
9/06
05 Reverdy Sancerre La
Coute $20
Crisp,
limestone. Plenty of acid (too much maybe). Finish tart but maintains grip
throughout. What separates these from crap Sauvignon Blancs is that you can
chew/swish/chew for as long as you want (which is one minute). The wine
continues to release and give without becoming a pool of useless spit and
juice. (cost $16, worth $20)
05 S. Dagueneau Pouilly-Fumé Les Pentes
$20
Plenty
of acid. crisp. Hint of diesel, though, which carries through the finish, which
at the moment is fine (intriguing even; perhaps this is what they mean by
Pouilly-Fumé having something a little more than Sancerre), but which I fear
someday, could mutate into evil. (cost $20, worth $16)
Very
nice. Easily worth $22
03 Barthod
Les Bon Batons $30
Wow, really good fruit. Nice. Totally worth the $30. Would say a
lot more except the finish gives hint of thinness wherein the tannins show
stronger than the fruit. This (and I agree with Rovani here) would portend a
short life. but wow it does taste really good. which is saying a lot in this
price point.
97 Loosen UW MSR $23
Wonderful,
medium-bodied MSR. Classic MSR nose and flavor. Gentle, crisp, good acidity level.
Fine now, but I wonder how long it could have gone? $23 / worth $30
96 Champault – Prestige
du Colombier – red Sancerre
Surprising
amount of berry for
great
burst of fruit. great extraction. chewable almost like a Brunello. only flaw is
a somewhat harsh/abrupt finish. but is that why we buy RdMs? Could have stayed
at least this good another 5+ years. (Cost $22/Worth $30)
8/06
Tignanello –
Nice
early fruit (some hint at a magnificent brown fruit VdT), but the finish is
unfortunately astringent. Might get a little better with a few more years or
even the trick of opening, recorking immediately then having it the next day.
That might help. (cost $60, worth $35)
Sweeter
than I remembered. Interesting, weird. A science project finish.
90 Clerc Milon
Smooth.
Same lead pencil mild berry as before. But so balanced. So enjoyable. If I
could have this balance and more fruit, I’d pay big money.
7/06
93 Rene Engel Les Brulées
Lost
note?
95 Chapoutier Sizeranne
Hermitage
Nice
nose. Good flavor. Could probably still improve another several years.
95 Barthod
CM Fuées $46 [RP 88-90, 2003-2010] 2007
Okay. Fine. Needs to
breath 30 mins. Could try between now and a few years?
88 Amarone – still very
tight (tannic) – great but try again in 5+
93
Cathiard VR Malconsorts
Tannins
need another couple years but fruit is on the down side (thin). Flavor seems
only okay for that matter. I didn’t have when younger but suspect it should
never have cost more than $30. (cost $43).
93 Bichot VR Clos Frantin Malconsorts $42
(compare
from 5 yrs ago). Tannins tough. Still
some fruit there. Oops. I should have waiting another few years. Might have at
least provided a mellower and better drink. I don’t think it would have been
great. But still. I might have waiting another 3-5 years.
1990 Il Greppone Mazzi
Brunello di Montalcino
Il Greppone Mazzi
Sangiovese Grosso (a dry red table wine)
78 points
A simple, one-dimensional Brunello di
Montalcino, this medium-bodied, moderately concentrated wine exhibits hard
tannin in the finish. There is not enough sweet, ripe fruit to balance out the
wine's astringency. More intensity, fat, and fruit extraction is warranted if
this wine is to carry its structure and tannin without drying out.
Parker (was) basically
right. The wine is too astringent, out of balance, and a bit too acidic as
well. But at 16 years age, the tannins have mellowed somewhat, and although I
would not serve this wine to anyone else, I certainly can take guilty pleasure
in its strong Sangiovese Grosso flavor. The flavor is there. And the experience
(while harsh), is still much more interesting (to me) than any $10-20
monolithic non-European swill.
95 La Palazzola Merlot
[2GR] $33 [RP 90, 2001-2017]
Good.
strong tannins. Medium, deep merlot-Italian style fruit. Hold another 3-5 yrs
98 Gigondas Cayron
Extremely
earthy “Gigondas” (for lack of a better term) flavor. If you like that flavor
(and you’d know what I’m talking about if you did), then you’re in business.
Wait another 5-10 years probably because this wine still has a strong
concentration fruit and tannins. $18
Worth (if you like the flavor and hit it in the window, then worth $28;
otherwise, $18)
6/06
90 Guigal $50 (refer to
previous note – same mosquitoed bottled)
Still
so good.
2003 Gevrey-Chambertin,
Perrot-Minot $48
Pretty
darned good. I’d say drinking right in the window. Golden. Rich. Good. Medium
bodied. Not too sweet or cloying. Cost $19 (worth $25)
96 Schleret Riesling
Sour.
Disgusting. Paint. Almost undrinkable. $16 (worth $0)
96 Schoffit Riesling
Harth
Same
as the above Schleret. And look. It wasn’t me. These are some warped ones. $17
(worth $0)
Very
tannic. Flavor okay. But hard to really tell. No reason to think it will either
become great or not for that matter. Just too rough today. Cost $40 (worth ?).
93 NSG Faiveley – fruit still holding
up – but out of balance a bit toward tannins – finish just too tannicy still –
doubt will ever reach balance. Enjoyable experience but could have probably
done better for price. $38
96 Joguet Chinon Rouge
Les Varennes Du Grand Close
Pretty
good. Not too sour or vegetal. Solid flavor. Typical Chinon Rouge. The inherent
flavor of the grape prevents extreme exhilaration or exaltation. But Joguet
really can construct a wine. Could last several more years, actually, and I
suspect if you could catch this in just the right window, the tannins would be
mellowed and what fruit would be there would be there. And this would be worth
a few more dollars than it costs. $27 (worth $29-35)
96 Joguet Chinon Rouge
Clos de la Dioterie
96 Schoffit Riesling
Harth
Intriguing
and not too bad flavor (better than previous). Only just slightly acidic, but
not unpleasantly so. Finish is…interesting. Awkward, but not unpleasantly so. Worth $12 (cost $16).
04 Pascal Cotat Sancerre
La Grande Cote Vignoble a Chavignol $40 [WV] *
Exploded…
01 Lingenfelder
Scheurebe Spatlese Freinsheimer Goldberg
Finish
still a vague hint of grapefruit (for me). But the middle flavor is better than
I remember from before. Pfalz not bad. Pfalz good. 6/06 $21 (worth $20)
3/06
03 Domaine Roger Sabon
Châteauneuf du Pape les Olivets
Wine Advocate #163 (Feb 2006)
The 2003 Châteauneuf du Pape Les Olivets has a dark
plum/garnet color and a big, sweet, spicy, earthy nose with hints of Provencal
herbs, tapenade, pepper, and spicy black cherries and currants. It is soft,
round, and ideal for drinking over the next 6-7 years. Rating: 88 points
Drink 2006-2013
Wine Advocate #156 (Dec 2004)
The 2003 Châteauneuf du Pape Les Olivets
performed beautifully in this vintage. A classic Provencal red, it offers a
dark ruby/garnet color as well as peppery notes of garrigue, new saddle
leather, black cherries, plums, and figs, medium to full body, a supple
texture, and loads of glycerin and fruit. This seductive effort can be drunk
upon release or cellared for 7-10 years.
Rating: (89-91) Drink 2004-2014
I would agree with these
comments.
01 Carmignano Ambra San
Cristina in Pilli $22
Tasty.
Fine. Not bad or overly out of balance. Fruit thins a little on late palate,
but that’s fine at this price.
The 2001 Carmignano Santa Cristina in Pilli, a
dark garnet, has a vigorous, and peppery nose of red and black berries, and an
attractive medium weight on the palate with good freshness and balance on the
finish. Drink: 2005-2010.
My lord I could not
possibly agree more with these comments.
2/06
02 Joguet Chinon Rouge
Initially
after opening, that characteristic Chinon Rouge flavor, which is somewhere
between vegetal and unripe cherry, which can only do so much for me.. But after breathing 30 mins, the flavor shifts
more toward fruit and away from vegetal, which again, can only do so much for me, but that’s more than the
previous so much, but still. Finish
is short, but no negatives, unless you call the faintly sour Chinon Rouge
flavor a slight negative. Would drink now, but may improve just slightly over
next five years. Somehow I just don’t see a
00 Deiss PG $30 [RP 91,
2004-2012]
Very
sweet. Nose has that slightly narshty chemical smell I’ve seen a few times from
various Alsatians (both Riesling and PG). This chemical X does carry through
into the main flavor, although it’s not unpalatable. Also, it’s hard to fully
appreciate the PG character once you get to this sweetness level (which is not
quite dessert-level, but definitely in VT territory). Late palate thins and
falls off a bit. Basically, this wine is
okay, but I wouldn’t pay > $22 for it. (cost $30) It’s also too acidic.
02 Egon-Müller MSR $30 K
All’s
I can remember is it was good. Probably worth the $30, or I figure I’d remember
that.
03 Dönnhoff (Nahe) $30 S
I’m
sure it was the same as previous, which was good, solid, impressive white
fruit.
1/06
02 Rausch
a
little grapefruity for me – but this is amazing solid concentration for a German
Spatlese. Really amazing. more concentrated that a Prum auslesen. Just the
flavor itself leaning slightly toward grapefruit rather than apple/pear will be
its limitation. The wine is structured nicely with thick, chewy tannins and a
backbone which I’m sure will age easily 15-20+ yrs. If it tastes good to you,
then this wine is perfect for you. finish is tart, lingers.
Good
tartly acids – good dry grip to counter what is a rather round/full mouthfeel
95 Clerc Milon
Tannins
so harsh that I couldn’t even discern the flavor, which didn’t seem to great
either. Wow. What the? Can time help this wine?
>Had the 95 Clerc Milon other day. Just a
nasty wall of tannins. Fruit may have been okay, but >tannins so nasty. Reminded me of the cheap $20 01 Muga Rioja
even. Will try again in 8-10 yrs >maybe but as is, very concerned and makes
me wish I could barrel taste
>
>I have no excuses. I bought four goddamn bottles of that 95
Clerc Milon even though it was only >89+ rated by Parker because that was
when I was just starting to buy wine and it was the only >seemingly decent
option for
>
>But then if 10 yrs from now it does become
decent, then that too will be yet more lesson.
The >question of whether a wine with nasty tannins which is so bad
you don’t even want to drink it—>can become good later? Is this going to be
like the pepper issue in N. Rhone? Will
only time >tell? Damn. Life is going to be over just when I finally begin to
understand wine.
96 Hudelot-Noellat Les Suchots
Standard
burg nose. Seemed to get better for about 45 mins then turned.. I think this
might drink better at some point over next 3-5 years, but I have no idea. Today
I feel lost with red burgundy. 1/06 re-tasted 7/06 (still seems tough; try
again 2-3 years, or it may never be good anyway)
95 Emidio Pepe
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Great
brown Italian flavor. Very chewy. Medium long enjoyable finish. Only ever-so
slightly awkward balance (but not more can be expected for an Italian
brown-fruiter). Would say drink now through at least 5 more years, and will
probably get even better as it mellows toward peak drinking.
Pretty
good concentration of fruit. Very Bordeaux-style, in my opinion. Still tight
and backward. But opens up > 30-60 mins. Should clearly improve over next 5-10
years. Very promising. 1/06
“About 200 cases were made of the 1996 Pin (89+), a proprietary red
wine blend of 50% Nebbiolo, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 25% Barbera. The color
is a saturated black/purple, and the wine tannic and backward, made in a
Medoc-like style. Although rich, it was closed, and revealing too much oak to
merit an outstanding score (it was brought up in 100% new oak casks).” – Wine
Advocate
90 Produttori
di Barbaresco – Ovello (see
others)
Same as previous.
It’s like time has stood still for this wine. Lots of fruit, astringent
tannins. +/- worth the price/effort.
95 Chap Sizeranne
Tight,
but good. would drink again in 2-3 years and expect it to improve over 7-10+.
Strong dirty violet flavor we expect from Syrah. Still a hint of
cinnamon/pepper but moving more toward the pure violet flavor at this point.
96 Schoffit Riesling
Harth
What
happened to this bottle? Some terrible accident? Flavor somehow warped like a
really f’d up Marsanne kind of. Bad.
95 Kerpen Auslese
Standard
MSR Auslese. Pretty much what you expect from a $30 Auslese. Just I’m not sure
I care that much about $30 Auslese anymore.
04 KG Weil Spatlese
“Impertinent,”
said one wine reviewer’s father. I agree. No idea what this wine is going to do
over time, or why the Wine Advocate made it cost $47, but I have another. And
let’s just leave it at that. Also, Robert Weil’s bottles are just beautiful.
And we all know it.
96 Vogue CM Premier Cru
Maybe
still closed. Try again in 2-3 years.
89 Monpertuis CDP
Amazingly,
this wine is still backward, and somewhat earthy. Remains promising. Try again
in 4-5 years.
02 Cristoffel 2 star
Swill.
95 Prum GKA
Just
like I remember the 90 Prum Auslese. Not sure where the G comes in, but you
could probably tell the difference if you had side by side with the regular
auslese. Anyway, this will age gracefully for some time I expect.
02 Weil Auslese KG
Just
like KG spatlese only 2x or maybe 3x concentration. Moving toward syrup. What
this wine will do over time? I have no clue.
95 Ambra Carmignano
Awkward,
but not plainly bad. Could be going through awkward phase? I really don’t know
but will try again in 5-7 years.
04 Leitz Magdelenkreuz
(Rheingau)
Solid
Rheingau punch (more like a good jab). Great balance at this price. Finish not as strong as, say, a more pricey
Weil, but still pretty nice for this price.
This is something to buy a lot of and just guzzle. 12/05
Leitz could start a new
career in green-bottle Rieslings! The 2004 Rudesheimer Magdalenenkreuz Riesling
Spatlese smells of peaches and strawberries and comes to the palate creamy yet
with fresh acidity, apply crispness, and subtle saltiness. This exhibits a bit
less poise and minerality than the Klosterlay, as befits a deeper-soiled site,
but it offers compensatory richness and a similar infectious juiciness. As
usual, Leitz is on a qualitative roll with these sweet wines from in principle
less-good sites.
Johannes Leitz’s acreage is now up to a whopping sixty-five, and even though
much of that goes to supply ever larger quantities of a few off-dry wines that
represent the backbone of his export program, the number of individual
bottlings has increased as well. Still, quality remains undiminished, as does
Leitz’s evident determination and enthusiasm. “This was a challenging vintage,”
he reports, “which is exactly what I like. I don’t want another 2003, where you
could ripen Riesling in the hinterlands and probably all the way up to
n
David Schinkekdt (Wine
Advocate)
I couldn’t agree more
with this review.
99 Ciacci Piccolomini Pianrosso
Brunello $40
Nose
fine. Palate delicious, fruit relatively forward. Tannins are present but seem
only to be there in order to balance the wine/grip. Nice medium-bodied wine.
Would not expect it to hold up to robust (> level 7) meats. Prolonged swishing reveals a not-extremely
concentrated wine, but there is a nice ~15 second finish. Would pay $40, but would not expect to cellar
> 5 yrs.
See The Wine Advocate’s
note for a complete laugh, because it has nothing to do with the wine I just
tasted.
99 casanuova Neri Brunello
$47
Initial
nose of (fenugreek? or celery seed? both?) which blows right off. Flavor more
complex, backward than the Pianrosso, but definitely intriguing, and good. This
is kind of a bomb isn’t it? I would put this down for at least 10 years
(?more). $47 (worth $50-55).
Alternate review: “Yes.
Yes and yes.”
03 Dönnhoff (Nahe)-- $30
Dönnhoff
1st
of all – it’s not THAT sweet. It’s pretty under-control for a spatlese.
Nose
– is nice -- ? nothing jumping out in particular
Balanced
– very nicely balanced
Palate
is nice – it doesn’t seem all that massive at first but prolonged swishing
continues to yield up good solid (what I would describe as quality MSR flavor,
even though we’re in Nahe, of course)
Good
long 10-15 (make that 20) second finish. Yes. Very balanced all the way
through. Kind of lilts there as it goes through the phases.
Worth $30, yes. RP 93
and I don’t disagree.
Caillerets redux à nose not THAT strong,
perfectly nice (just not jumping out at me) but body/palate is deliciosa to the
max – very buttery – so buttery – smooth – just delicious – still think way
less grip than the Jadot Folatières – but still – god – different strokes – for
right now – this is great –
01 Muga Rioja Resereva
Initially
a bit out of control. Out of balance, perhaps too acidic. But it settles down after 20-30 minutes and a
not-that-bad Rioja flavor emerges. If you’re a fan of the typical $10-25 Rioja
flavor: oak, fruit, more oak. Then you
won’t be disappointed. $22 (worth $14-17).
Never buy more than one
of a Rioja, unless you’ve tasted it
yourself.
97 Dr
Pauly Spatlese
Standard (good) MSR
nose. Nice attack flavor, acidity (almost too much), but late palate has very
slight sub-par flavor (?souring). Slight, not major. Only cost like $18 anyway
(worth $20).
02 Jadot Petit-Chapelle
Initial
impression of nose is standard burgundy—nothing specific available to me, but
it seems like a nose is in there somewhere. After opened 45 mins, flavor moving
slightly in direction of cherry. Good balance. Seems potentially worth $40. Is
this what they mean by cassis?
12/05
03 Dönnhoff Norheimer
Dellchen Spatlese
God
I can’t tell the difference among these 03 Dönnhoff spats. I just can’t, unless
I have them side by side each other. But from memory…my god it’s just so
close…I may stop trying and just consider them all the same. Which is good, and
solidly worth their roughly $30-40 price.
04 Haag Brauneberger
Juffer Sonnenuhr Auslese 2004 375ml $18
The
nearest thing this wine reminds me of, interestingly or not, is the exact same
wine from 1990, which I will now look forward to tasting side by side directly
and comparing. I would say it’s about the same sweetness and concentration as
the equally priced Dönnhoff Spatlesen I’ve tried from 03 and 04. So I’d say it’s priced appropriately. Might
get one or two to age out and see what happens. Need to try the 04 GKA of same
and compare.
01 Lingenfelder Scheurebe
Spatlese Freinsheimer Goldberg
“From a sandy soil-dominated terroir, the exotic
fruit and white flower-scented 2001 Scheurebe Spatlese Freinsheimer Goldberg is
a juicy, expressive wine. Sweet earth, currants, assorted red fruits, and
pineapples make up this broad, medium-bodied wine's flavor profile. Lush and
silky-textured, it is plump, fat, and boldly flavored. Projected maturity:
Now-2012.”
What Mr. Rovani neglects
to mention is that it tastes like grapefruit. Not good.
03
Nose
of cinnamon > berry. Middle with good concentration, but flavor still the
spice > berry. Finish smooth. I will be curious to see what happens to this
cinnamon flavor (which I’ve seen more often in Gigondas and
03 Milliere
(2)
Had next to the
01 Albino Rocca
Barbaresco Vigneto Brich Ronchi
Wall
of tannin—but not just a wall of tannin, but an incredibly astringent, ten-foot
thick, impenetrable sheet of—I don’t even remember the last time I met tannins
like this. There is fruit. Plenty of fruit, but right now, the two are on
separate planets. And for $50, I’m not sure there’s enough evidence they’ll
ever come together. I cannot buy more at that price when there are sure things,
like so many other 01s for just a few dollars more. Between us, the truth is,
these tannins will outlast the fruit by > 5 yrs. 12/05
“The 2001 Barbaresco Brich Ronchi features a
complex nose with incense and chocolate mingled with notes of roses and anise,
a rich, deep palate whose size and weight are balanced by much velvet and very
supple tannins. Drink: 2005-2018.” – Daniel Thomases
Okay, what was he
smoking? He’s right about the nose. It did start to develop a fairly
interesting nose > 1 hr after opening. I forgot about that.
"Fabulous
aromas of crushed blackberries and strawberries follow through to a full-bodied
palate, with soft and velvety tannins and a fresh finish. Very aromatic red.
Best after 2007. 1,620 cases made." WS92
00 Clerico CMG
Pepper
nose, but not only pepper (see annoying, young Côte-Rôtie), but also other
spices too. Amazingly chewy body. Tannins oppressively young at this point, but
this wine is all there, no doubt. Finish
about 15-30 seconds. The young tannins, wow. But as I say, all there. All
there. Pepper blows off after a while anyway. This is good, solid Barolo.
01 Clerico CMG
Slightly
more strength, tannins // tannins seem a little younger (one year younger) but
flavor also showing a little more // What I imagine is a classic Nebbiolo
flavor – even now, I’m still swishing the same mouthful, and it’s occurring to me
that this flavor is pretty much unending. At $65, one should buy more of this.
01 Blanck
Gewurztraminer Fersentum VV
Good, solid Gewurz
flavor, but finish is surprisingly non-existent (after beginning/middle). Incredible
value for $25 (cost $30).
By Stephen
Tanzer
Stephen Tanzer's
International Wine Cellar, Nov/Dec 03
Rated: 92
Aromas of smoked meat, cinnamon oil and rose petal. Chewy, spicy and stylish,
with an enticing sugar/acid balance. Not especially fat but offers excellent
peppery density to buffer its 33 grams of residual sugar. Finishes sweet, chewy
and smooth, with lovely spicy persistence.
Dude, he is dead on.
Tanzer is dead on.
04 Vieux
Donjon CDP White
Hints of pineapple,
lychee and
NV Ximenez
Asuncion
I really do not like
this flavor. Maybe it’s me? I will have to have more sherries and figure this
out. All I can say is I can’t drink any more of this. $15/500cc
11/05
Brunello
99 Gorelli
Flavor fairly
peculiar in it has a kind of a dual tack palate. It has a lot of delicious
fruit running through. But just ½ of the way through, you become aware of,
like, this parallel layer of more watery flavor. Which then assumes captaincy
over the finish.
99 Scopetone
Incredibly backward (I thought). If you let it
breath > 1-2 hrs, you start to get that classic LTTC (leather, tobacco, tar,
chocolate) that we associate with Brunello. Dense, chewy middle (the
wine has about $50 worth of concentration). Strong tannins. Could turn out
awesome. Could turn out pretty good.
Will not turn out bad. I would hesitate to predict its future to any
certainty, but I see no major flaws and would not discourage anyone from buying
and cellaring this one. $55 (probably worth it)
99 Ciacci Piccolomini
Pianrosso Brunello
Nose fine. Palate delicious, fruit relatively
forward. Tannins present but mild.
Nice medium-bodied wine. Prolonged swishing
reveals a not-extremely concentrated wine.
Would not attempt to match anything greater than (> level 7) meats. Nice ~15 second finish. This wine is delicious and I should say ready
for drinking now through 5-7 more years.
$40 (worth $40)
The following Parker review: “The 1999
Brunello di Montalcino Vigna di Pianrosso, one of the best to date, announces
its importance with warm and potent aromas of plums and red currants, chocolate
and tar. The rich and concentrated flavors, deep, supple, and very long, have
the dimension, class, and definition that put the Sangiovese of Montalcino in a
category of its own. Drink: 2005-2020.”
What is he smoking? Are we talking about the
same wine?
99 Casanova
di Neri Brunello $47
Initial nose of (fenugreek? or celery seed?
both?) which blows right off. Flavor more complex, backward than the Pianrosso,
but definitely intriguing, and good. This is kind of a bomb isn’t it? Started to open after about an hour. This wine portends greatness. I
would put this down for at least 10 years (maybe longer). $47 (worth $50-55).
Alternate review: “Yes.
Yes and yes.”
01 Feudi Serpico
Tannins way
over-the-top. Middle over-oaked. I’m not even so sure about the basic grape
flavor either for that matter. It will certainly be interesting to see what
happens to this monster over time, but for now, I would hesitate to buy any
more at $60. (worth ?)
00 Falesco
Montiano
I liked
it. Nice balance. Smooth tannins. Nice fruit (how Italians can make merlot
taste like a Sangiovese/cab blend is beyond me but...). Expect it will drink
well from now for maybe a gentle evolution of 5-8 yrs (probably would keep
longer, but I think it will be at it’s best by then). $38 (worth $36-38)
01 Fattoria di Felsina CCR Rancia
Good, tasty, accessible.
Still, it doesn’t reach beyond that just slightly too-sour Chianti flavor. $26
(worth $20-30)
01 Felsina Chianti Classico Berardenga
Forty-five minutes air
and this is already much better. Still only $25-30 worth of Chianti flavor and
concentration. But surprisingly balanced for this region/price (i.e. the finish
was only somewhat shellacy). Might get better over the next 5-7 years. Not bad.
($?)
95 Dr.
Pauly Bergweiler WS Spatlese [MSR]
Wow. So much more oily
now (as opposed to, before)?! But still good. Very smooth, very interesting
experience. Wow, so smooth.
Lilting
When a
wine just falls off the sides of the tongue. Rare in a young wine, but not
uncommon in well-aged wines (seems especially achievable in German Riesling).
03 Robert Weil Grafenberg Spatlese [Rheingau]
What can I say? This is
a really nice Spatlese. It has good
tartly acids (but not too much, not out of balance). It has plenty of typical
Rheingau flavor quality (in fact, this, to me, seems like the best thing about
this wine; the late-palate has a solid punch of decent Rheingau flavor). It has
a brief little drop-off finish, but let’s go back to the flavor. What great
flavor. Worst cork ever. But really horrendous.
Soaked right through, pushing out of the bottle (?CO2), doubt
it would have lasted ten more minutes.
Easily worth $30-35 (not sure about $38; I think I found some just now
for $23; a steal at $23).
03 Dönnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Spatlese [Nahe]
Absolutely. So smooth it
almost makes me wonder what’s the catch? This can’t really be this much
pleasure? Surely, there must be something deficient about it that I’m just not
appreciating? The wine (being so young,
and with ample tannins), cannot lilt, but it does glide, surely. $40 (worth
$40)
(2a) So round and
smooth. Glides so goddamn smooth—I just
can’t fathom how this wine is going to make it 10 yrs and yet I KNOW it will. I just can’t fathom it
though. Riesling. [RP 93]
“The 2003 Riesling
Spatlese Oberhauser Brucke is flint-scented, medium-bodied, and silky-textured.
Well-balanced, it explodes on the palate with loads of white fruits, notes of
red berries, and spices. Suave, angle-free, and exceptionally long in the
finish, this effort is a candidate for drinking between 2005 and 2020.” –
Pierre Rovani
04 Dönnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Spatlese [Nahe]
My initial
reaction is that this one seemed to have even more balance and smoothness, both
in the middle and finish than the ’03, but that the actual flavor and drinking
experience was not necessarily better, just different. I personally feel like
making any sweeping predictions based on distinctions between these two
different vintages (in this same vineyard) would be a challenge. The fact, for
me, is that they are both great (and good values).
“From the
2004 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese rise aromas of honey, grapefruit,
candied lemon and blueberries. Blue fruit and honey are poured over the palate
as well, creamy and rich, yet animated by insistently bright citricity,
high-toned esters of distilled berries, nippy notes of invigoratingly tart
fruit skin, and mineral salts. The finish is a veritable fugue of intricate
flavors, exhibiting astonishing clarity and length. Less ethereal than the
Norheim Spatlesen, this is uncanny in its balance and complexity and, given the
proclivities of young Spatlese from this site, certainly a bit behind the other
Spatlesen of this collection in its development.” – David Schildknecht
Not quite
sure if I can go quite as far with the blue theme as Mr. Schildknecht, but I
like his use of the terms “citricity, esters, tart fruit skin and mineral
salts” and will have to start using them myself.
And boom.
Just like that I am in love again with Rheingau. In love would be an
understatement. The Rheingau just kicks ass I’ve decided. Both Weil and Leitz
have made me a believer. And I shall need to find more good examples. No
finish, acids are in-your-face but still not too-much-so. But the flavor, the
flavor is solid Rheingau punch. And it’s worth everything, anything. $22 (worth
it).
“Leitz could
start a new career in green-bottle Rieslings! The 2004 Rudesheimer Magdalenenkreuz
Riesling Spatlese smells of peaches and strawberries and comes to the palate
creamy yet with fresh acidity, apply crispness, and subtle
saltiness. This exhibits a bit less
poise and minerality than the Klosterlay, as befits a deeper-soiled site,
but it offers compensatory richness
and a similar infectious juiciness. As usual, Leitz is on a qualitative roll
with these sweet wines from in principle less-good sites.” – David Schildknecht
Never mind the peaches, strawberries. That’s
subjective/relative. But what he says about “lee poise” and “compensatory
richness” is pretty much exactly what I was trying to say. Go David. Go David.
And go Bob (Parker) for finding this guy. Great find.
03 Dönnhoff KG Spatlese [Nahe]
Compared with the 03 Dönnhoff
OB Spatlese, the 03 KG Spatlese was very similar, but the
Reflection: I don’t know.
Thinking about the 03 Dönnhoff
04 Fritz
Haag BJS Kabinett $20 [MSR]
Standard, solid MSR
flavor. Good balance. Well worth $20. Screw cap though, Jesus!
Fading gracefully at
this point. Still very balanced, though. Enjoyable. Well worth $15. Touch of grapefruit notes.
97 Dr.
Pauly Spatlese $18 [MSR]
Standard (good) MSR
nose. Nice attack flavor, acidity (almost too much), but late palate has very
slight sub-par flavor (?souring). Slight, not major. Only cost like $18 anyway
(worth $20).
01 Kloster
Eberbach Erbacher Marcobrunn
Good balance. Starts to
take on nice bouquet after opened a bit. Medium Rheingau flavor. Late palate
actually takes an odd twist (not bad but just a bit weird), which carries
through finish.
01 Kerpen
Auslese $30 (on sale for $22) [MSR]
Very typical MSR flavor.
Late palate reveals not-so-much concentration of fruit and a sort of short (but
not unpleasant) finish. I would pay $18-20 for this, but I wouldn’t make an
effort to age it out. In fact, wait—the more I drink of this, the more amazed
by just how not-concentrated it really is. And wait—oh my god, the acidity.
It’s horrible. Sweet Jesus my esophagus!
It’s burning me. Damn you Marty’s Liquors!
01
Patheiger Auslese $52 [Don’t Care]
Very sweet even for
Auslese. Could this be cloying? Could this be love? Cloying. $50 is way too much for this. It’s just not
that good on many levels.
Barolo
01 Clerico Pajana
A monster. Grendel. But delicious. Tried to let it air out a few
hours but the wine, but the wine tasted too good for people to not finish it before
even one hour was up. I would say
compared to some of the 01’s clocking in at $80, that this Barolo is probably
worth a proportionate $65 and may even turn out to be undervalued at that. Barolos nowadays really are ridiculously
expensive. But still worth it, in my opinion.
01 Pira/E
Cannubi
Damn good. Not quite as elegant/balanced, nor
does it have quite the incredible mouth feel of the 01 Scavino Bric
99 Rocche
dei Manzoni Vigna d’Big
Initially very oaky, good mid-palate,
late-palate good but not too terribly concentrated (reluctant to use the word
‘thin’ because compared to other wines…, but compared to some of the 01 Barolos
I’ve had, it certainly is not on the extreme end of the concentration
spectrum). $50 (worth $40-50)
01 Azelia
San Rocca
Standard Nebbiolo nose. Tannins sharp, crisp.
Flavor has a touch of sour. Finish under 10 seconds. This wine will no doubt
improve greatly with time. Definitely
not ready at this stage.
01 Scavino
Bric De Fiasc
Standard Nebbiolo nose. Flavor after initial
opening is already showing more than Azelia. Body slightly smoother, more
chewy. Finish is more classic Nebbiolo. After being opened 45 minutes, both the
Azelia and Scavino just got better and better. The sourness in the Azelia gave
way to a much nicer, rich Nebbiolo flavor.
The Scavino became fatter and softer and its flavor started to become
outright delicious. This Scavino is my top pick in 01 Barolo so far. I am going
to have to make some inquiries. $80
(worth $85)
02 Guy
Amiot
Great flavor. Smooth, round, not too sour.
Doesn’t seem to have the tannic backbone I would think would be needed to allow
long-term aging. Yes? Overall, seems
very similar to the Latour Caillerets. Makes
sense since both from the same place.
Okay, so now I really am starting to need
to know what a Bâtard Montrachet tastes like.
02
Meursault Genevrieres, Latour RP 92-94 $60
Pear hints in nose. Good structure, balance. A
tiny bit sour when had next to the C d
02
Latour-Giraud Meursault Duc-Magenta $75 [or am I talking about
Really showing nicely right now and I should
think plenty of structure to cellar further as well.
02 Vincent
Girardin – Aloxe Corton?
Lemony-sour, flint, fatwood, tinder.
Near-perfect balance, just that I prefer the more-ready flavor of the
Latour-Giraud Pierres. Although the AC really does have essentially unending
fruit, which you cannot not be impressed by, whether you love (and would marry)
the flavor or not
02 Latour Meursault
$60
Compared to the LG Duc-Magenta, this one seemed
a touch austere (e.g. more sour and not fruit forward enough). Perhaps in time,
that will give way toward a better, fruitier expression. We shall certainly
see.
02 Latour CM
Very delicate, balanced right through to a nice
~20 second finish. Only question is when will it start fading. Because it’s
good to go right now as far as I’m concerned.
(2) nose not THAT strong, perfectly nice (just
not jumping out at me) but body/palate is deliciosa to the max – very buttery –
so buttery – smooth – just delicious – still think way less grip than the Jadot
Folatières – but still – god – different strokes – for right now – this is
great –
Very nice flavor through mid-palate. Initially finish seemed a touch oily and
weird, but this seemed to go away after a bit. Overall, very nice. Worth price.
Probably doesn’t need long to reach peak. ?3-7 yrs and couldn’t say beyond
that.
Complexity squared. Flavor is good, and I really am captivated by
the grip on this one. Have had several times and continue to be impressed.
03 Cristia
Renaissance CDP
Nose of 38 cherries. No, it’s not exactly
cherry. Maybe cherry Lambic. Good concentration. Medium body. Not a monster
anything but solid flavor. Very good balance. Plenty of tannins. Nice finish.
Would buy more if I didn’t already have way too many 03 South Rhône. I like the
flavor of this one perhaps a little more than the 03 Vieux Donjon CDP.
01 Muga
Rioja Reserva
Initially a bit out of
control. Out of balance, perhaps too acidic.
But it settles down after 20-30 minutes and a not-that-bad Rioja flavor
emerges. If you’re a fan of the typical $10-25 Rioja flavor—oak, fruit, more
oak—then you won’t be disappointed. $22 (worth $14-17).
Never buy more than one
of a Rioja, unless you’ve tasted it
yourself.
9/05
96 Barthod CM (2) $35
[RP 86-88, 1998-2001]
96 Bouchard Beaune
L’Enfant Jesus $58 [RP 89, 2000-2006]
Not
bad. Flavor is still a bit twiggy but it seems moving in the right direction. I
think it will peak in 3-5 years.
96 Comte de Vogue CM $70
[RP 88-90, 2002-2005]
Same as Bouchard but
even more interesting flavor in there. Waiting to just pop out: in about 2-3
years.
90 Roberto Mazzi Punta
di Villa
Good.
Seems like could still go another 5+ without much trouble. $38 (worth $45)
Doing
fine. Flavorful. $20 (worth $18)
90 Badia a Coltibuono
Sangioveto
Really
tasting like any above-average Chianti to me.
Sadly not as amazing as was hoped. Was the fruit better a few years
ago? I don't know. But just doesn’t seem
very integrated or smooth at this point. Sad. (RP 94, now – 1997; I’ll never
know; sad). $40 9/05