Montgomery's Cheddar
The story is this, I wanted to know if artisanal cheddar could possibly be worth as much as it costs (I dare not provide actual numbers but suffice to say, it's a lot). So I went down the street and bought samples of all these different cheddars: Keen’s, Lincolnshire Poacher, Montgomery’s, others.
Now, before I go on any further, let me say if you plan to eat your cheddar in a hotdog or hamburger, then actually you do want Cracker Barrel. Not only will its piquant, malt-vinegar made-to-receive-ketchup (and to survive it) quality come through, but it’s cheap. So you can pile it right on. Easy. But if you actually plan to sit down for a while and nibble and want something you can contemplate, well then now is the time for artisanal cheddar.
Ok never mind what anyone out there may try to sell you. You want Montgomery’s. Montgomery’s cheddar has perhaps one of the most special flavors of any cheese in existence: more grassy than earthy, more elegant than forceful (regular cheddar is forceful; parents are forceful). You start by getting a piece with rind. Make sure the actual outer cloth is peeled off (you’ll figure it out). Then you eat some of the (be prepared for) very grassy tasting part at or near the rind. Going straight for the outer layer gives you a crash-start on the unique flavor. And then you know. One reason Montgomery’s is better, in my experience, than all its rivals is that it maintains the high high level of flavor throughout the entire wedge, whereas others tends to get really strong only toward the outer circle.
Beer is my drink of choice with cheddar. Crisp English (or Scottish) ales are the way to go for sure. St. Peter's, Traquair House, or even a Samuel Smith's old-style porter will not let you down. Wine with cheddar is difficult. With grocery store cheddar, please do not even try, and if you do, please do not tell me about your successes. With a serious (and by serious I mean expensive) cheddar, I’ve personally found a nice, strong Chinon Rouge (Loire Valley) does well. The juvenile (and by that I mean about 3-5 years) Chinon Rouge may possess an ever-so-slightly unripe cherry flavor, which seems to play well off a good cheddar of similar temperament. As for other ideas, some say Syrah. I haven’t yet tried that, but I must say I’ve never voted against Syrah in anything, and I don’t imagine I ever will. I’ve heard Cabernet, but I don’t believe it.
The wine should be in balance (so you enjoy it), but should have sufficient tannins to be able to “cut through” the ample fat of the cheese. This creates that balance we want (I want) in your mouth. When a cheese is dry, you need an acidic wine to stimulate your saliva glands to overcome the dryness. But here this is not the case. So never mind. (“Mrs. Peel, you’re not needed.”)
Alternatively, you could use various chutneys to try to steer your cheddar in a certain direction. This might open the door to new wine pairings, which I still don’t want to hear about. An apple chutney could lead you to the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region in Germany. A pineapple chutney could lead you to a Marsanne, Roussanne blend from the Northern Rhone. A sweet plum and raisin chutney could work with a nice sherry or a tawny port. If your chutney is hot, you should have a beer. For bread, I only know a little, half of which Rob just told me. Rob runs a cheese shop (if you weren’t paying attention). Wheat offers a reliable non-reactive platform which allows the cheddar flavor itself to keep center stage. The other trick is to use a bit of sourdough to play off any sourness in the cheddar. The two flavors are even matched in forcefulness, so the result is different than the sum of the parts. Both partners give up something, and give you a new taste for it. I got this from Rob. I wonder if he’s seen Ghost in the Shell? I doubt it.
But seriously. Montgomery’s Cheddar—is worth it.